Day 21 - 26 Hayle to Penzance
Day 21 - Hayle to St Ives. This was one of my favourite days so far, a very short stretch of about 8 miles around the Hayle estuary and through the beautiful village of Lelant. The path then runs along behind the stunning beaches of Porthkidney Sands and Carbis Bay before reaching St Ives. Knowing it was a short day, I hadn't left Hayle until about 10am so had plenty of time for a long rest on the stunning Carbis Bay beach. Another beautiful day with hot sun and very little wind, does life get any better !?
Day 22 - St Ives to Zennor. Leaving St Ives there is a surfaced track that I had to share with the usual dog walkers and strollers for a mile or so but then the path gradualy turned into grass and I was soon on my own. Its strange how this section then becomes very harsh and bleak so quickly after a pretty little town like St Ives. Before long the rocks begin appearing and the path then becomes strewn with boulders and the only way forward is to climb over them. The occasional section free from too many rocks was generally boggy so all in all, a very challenging few miles. This really is a remote and wild part of Cornwall and the views are awe-inspiring. I stayed at one of the best known pubs in Cornwall, The Tinners Arms in Zennor. I enjoyed a lovely meal in the garden there with an Austrian lady I had met on the path earlier.
Day 23 - Zennor to St Just. This was not enjoyable walking ! The rocks continued until early afternoon so there was very little actual walking, more clambering and jumping from rock to rock, very hard on the ankles and knees. I haven't fallen over yet but I don't think it will be long ! It was also very slow, I probably averaged less than 1 mph. The rocks eventually receded but the path then passed through the preserved tin mining area around Levant where there are gravel surfaces and big groups of tourists to negotiate. After leaving Levant, a young Chinese lady walking the path a few hundred yards behind me made the mistake of assuming I knew where I was going and followed me as I missed the path and ended up on a beach. I apologised and managed to find the path again and she seemed to take it well although her English wasn't great so I'm not completely sure. By the time I was finally walking on grass, the village of St Just came into view where I was staying. About 12 miles today with fabulous weather yet again but not the most enjoyable stretch.
Day 24 - St Just to Porthcurno. This was a strange day, the sun was shining as usual but as I left St Just, the wind was getting up and by the time I reached the coast path it was blowing a gale. For the first time on this trip the sea looked rough and the high winds continued for the whole day. In places I had to divert inland a few hundred yards to avoid walking along the cliff edge. For a couple of miles I had to act as a guide for a man who is even older than me and who had lost his confidence near the cliff edge in the strong wind. It wasn't ideal having someone hanging on to my rucksack but we managed okay. It was a shame about the wind because this is a really interesting section, passing through Sennen Cove, Lands End, the incredible Song of the Sea rocks at Nanjizal beach and the Minnack Theatre at Porthcurno.
Day 25 - Porthcurno to Penzance. What an awful morning ! If you choose one section of the path to walk, make sure its not this one. Rocks all over the path, plenty of mud and very overgrown, mostly with the bigest and most powerful stinging nettles I've ever seen ! In some places the path was so narrow it pratically dissapeared. It took me neary 5 hours to do the 5 miles to Lamorna Cove where I stopped at the lovely cafe there for a rest. The afternoon became easier and the last few miles were on flat tarmac through Mousehole, Newlyn and into Penzance. Plenty of walkers get a bit snooty about tarmac walking but not me, I enjoy walking through the towns and villages as much as I love the cliff tops, especially after a morning like that !
Day 26 - Rest Day. An opportunity to get some washing done, have a wander around Penzance and put my feet up. I'm feeling really good at the moment, the blisters are gone and I'm fully well into my stride, albeit a fairly slow one ! Good job to reaally because I've got 12 days walking coming up, not great planning on my part.